Robert Sutherland reflects on arduous Kilimanjaro trek

Mount Kilimanjaro is 5,895m (19,341ft) high and is the largest free-standing mountain in the world. Because of the height and lack of oxygen there will be some effects on any person not acclimatised to the altitude, mainly a faster pulse, slight headaches, and an increased feeling of fatigue. The main risk to not completing the climb is altitude sickness.

This can happen affect some people at altitudes above 2,000m, but is more likely to be common once you get above 2,500m–3,000m.  Symptoms can include persistent headaches, loss of appetite, pins and needles, nausea, vomiting, dizziness, bronchitis-like symptoms, and retinal haemorrhaging. My trek was on the Machame Route, one of seven possible routes, over six days so as to allow the majority of people to acclimatise in the shortest period of time.

The trek begins by a steep ascent, climbing 1220m over six hours through rainforest. On the first night we were introduced to the long-drop toilets provided at each camp. Not something to be described further! The second day of walking starts by getting up at 6am, packing up, breakfast, then a 7am departure. The day’s walk was in strong sunshine, taking us through a varied landscape up to the Shira Plateau (3845m). The third day began with another 6am wake up call. The third day was a bit longer, and involved a climb up to 4,600m before a descent down to Barranco Camp at 3960m. The fourth and fifth days seemed to almost run seamlessly together. It began with a 5.30am rise, setting off at 6.30am. Near the start of the day is a scramble along the Barranco Wall, followed by an ascent over desolate terrain until we reach Barafu Camp (4640m) at about 4.00pm. Dinner is at 5pm, and in bed at 6pm for a few hours sleep before an 11pm rise. 

The walk to the summit begins shortly after midnight. A line of headtorches can be seen strung out in front and behind us as we climb that last 1,255m. The pace is “pole pole” (slowly) as they say in Swahili, with several breaks to help people get their breath. The doctor is monitoring one person because of concerns about blood pressure. As we are three-quarters of the way into the final ascent, hail is being blown into our faces.

It takes us 10 hours to reach the summit. Unfortunately, one of the team had severe symptoms of altitude sickness and needed to be taken back to camp part way up. Another team member reached Stella Point (5,756m) but could not go further. Once we reach Uhuru Peak (the summit) we hear rumours that snow showers might mean the summit is closed to more climbers. Whether that is true or not, we are allowed no more than 10 minutes before we begin our descent. We return to Barafu Camp by 3pm for a quick meal, and then another 2.5 hours down to Mweka Camp (3,100m) for an overnight sleep. The last day was short.  Beginning with the luxury of a 7am rise, we left the camp at 8am.

Rain turned the path into a tricky trial of negotiating big drops in height, slippery rock and mud, but the path got easier as it went on. I reached Mweka Gate at 10.30, thinking I had finished. I soon realised that there were no buses to return us to our hotel because the access road was a sea of mud that was too dangerous for them to either ascend or descend. Another half hour walk was needed, and then it was over.

This has been the physically hardest thing I have done in my life, and a corresponding mental challenge to keep going despite the difficulties. I want to thank all those who have given donations to my fundraising efforts. It is not too late to give as I am still collecting donations. My fundraising page is here. Please help me help vulnerable and abused children in Scotland.